We got an early start this morning, because it’s the autumn equinox and the beginning of a festival week and the Aztec tradition is to “raise the dawn” with lots of noise and fire. In modern times, that means lots of fireworks going off around 4am. Harmonizing with the extremely loud fireworks were the fighting cocks on the rooftop patio a few doors down, and an assortment of church bells calling the faithful to mass every five minutes. If this were a musical performance, the title would be “cock-a-doodle-ding-dong-BAM! BAM! BAM!” and it would be played with the volume turned all the way up. We woke up laughing and enjoyed the concert for an hour or so until the dawn had been successfully raised. It was a good start to a new day of exploring.

After our breakfast with the other four guests here at the casa (Ahma, we had really good tamales along with black beans con queso and scrambled eggs with two types of chile sauce, plus fruit and yogurt) we headed down to the biblioteca to meet a tour of local houses and gardens.

The biblioteca (library) is amazing, with a big open courtyard, a cafe and all kinds of inviting alcoves full of books. They raise tens of thousands of dollars every year for scholarships and medical care for Mexican children. Their scholarship program is funded by weekly Sunday afternoon house and garden tours. You buy your ticket at 11am and then come into the central courtyard for refrescos (refreshments) and entertainment by costumed troubadors. There is an art sale going on, as well. It’s lots of fun while you wait for the tour bus to arrive.

The house tour was interesting. It went to three houses in different parts of the city, and was like a Parade of Homes, Mexican style. Afterwards, we walked back to the center of town to watch dancers performing in front of the parroquia.

Speaking of mysterious customs, we have noticed that groups line up around a certain ancient rusty gas pump near the park for photos. Look carefully, and you will see a lovely square with a big sculpture of Allende on horseback just across the street to the left — a very scenic spot for a photo — but instead, everybody is arranged around a gas pump that appears to date from the early Mayan civilization. Mark asked why they wanted a picture of the gas pump, and the reply was: “We think it is beautiful.”

Here is Mexico’s most photographed gas pump:

This town is full of beauty. Mark photographed these two doors on our walk back to the casa for afternoon siesta. Everywhere you look, the architecture is enough to make you stop and admire 500 years of fine craftsmanship.